This evaluation of a Newlyn/Penzance restaurant is a break from The Choosy Glutton’s traditional London-based protection.
For an island nation, the UK is collectively fairly neurotic about what it does and doesn’t eat. Regardless of the prominence of fisheries within the UK’s more and more bitter relations with its continental neighbours, we’re a surprisingly seafood-averse bunch. In 2017, in accordance with figures from the UN Meals and Agriculture Organisation, the common British particular person consumed roughly 15kg of fish and seafood. This compares to 35kg for the common French or Chinese language particular person, 45kg for the common Japanese and round 60kg for the common South Korean or Portuguese.
There are infinite speculative theories about why the UK is stuffed with seafood-dodgers, however the affect of this comparatively aquaphobic consuming tradition is evident. From the sterile monoculture on show at grocery store fish counters to the compulsory comfort steak or rooster dish on the menus of most seafood eating places, our seafood-eating tradition – as a complete – isn’t anyplace as wealthy accurately.
The charmingly named Mackerel Sky makes no try and pacify seafood naysayers. Maybe as a result of the kitchen is small, naturally limiting what it might probably and may’t cook dinner up. And maybe as a result of there are merely fewer thalassoceptics milling round on this a part of the world, provided that Mackerel Sky is situated in Newlyn, one of many nation’s busiest fishing ports.
Regardless of the purpose, it pays to begin off with the plump and exactly cooked prawns. The chilled, beady-eyed crustaceans had been neither too agency nor too smooth. Their flippantly candy and salty flavour was arguably obscured by the hollandaise-ish dipping sauce although.
Even so, the prawns had been much more preferable as a starter than the crab salad. The undistinguished melange of leg and head meat heaped on prime of some leaves was a tame affair.
Fleshy l’il anchovies had been moderately salty, however their moreishness wasn’t as daring and lip smacking as a few of the absolute best anchovies I’ve had.
Those self same anchovies topped a particular of sardines bathed in a thick tomato and oregano sauce. The anchovies unsurprisingly added little, however the sardines had been meaty with not one of the stodginess that usually afflicts their tinned compatriots. The green-and-red sauce was a surprisingly modest affair although, with a muted umami that was simply potent sufficient to overwhelm the anchovies however not so strident sufficient to offer an actual counterpart to the sardines. An uneven particular.
Whereas the coating of the lemon sole tonkatsu wasn’t as feathery smooth as Tokyo’s best, it was nonetheless a satisfying instance of the deep-fried arts. Nice-grained, tightly-crumbed, oil-free and remarkably crisp with delicately skinny and moist fish beneath all of it. It was the right conveyor for the chip shop-style curry sauce on the aspect, which had a lilt of fruity sweetness that was totally becoming.
Plump scallops not solely had a salty tang evocative of the ocean, however all had their moreish sunset-hued roe hooked up too. All of this was overwhelmed by the cubed chorizo and its paprika-derived smokiness and delicate warmth although, so the porcine intruder was greatest taken afterwards.
Though the grilled mackerel seemed and felt the half with blistered pores and skin and suitably meaty flesh, it was considerably missing in that particular mackerel style. This seeming omission made sense when the fish was taken with the punchy tartare sauce and candy pickles, its meatiness performing as a medium for the balanced flavours of that duo.
Whereas the mussels right here didn’t have the identical agency, fleshy chunk as these obtainable from the Searoom in St Ives, they had been nonetheless passable sufficient – particularly with the good thing about the creamy, tangy sauce and focaccia-like bread to take in the surplus.
Desserts had been the entire smooth and scoopable set pudding selection, probably ready off-site after which introduced in. Lemon posset was lusciously thick, however solely mildly tart – I’d have most well-liked a extra lip-puckering sensation. The crunchy, malty biscuit on the aspect was superb, however I’d commerce it in for an additional serving to of additional tart posset in a heartbeat.
Chocolate mousse was an inoffensive crowd pleaser that didn’t style of a lot, however it was not less than mild and fluffy.
The Verdict
Mackerel Sky is clearly able to rustling up some superb dishes primarily based round prime quality seafood, which makes the unevenness of its output all of the extra irritating. There’s clearly potential right here, however it feels constrained and unfulfilled for causes that I can solely speculate about.
Mockingly although, the blunted, muted nature of a few of its dishes could make it extra amenable to successful over seafood-dodgers and fish-haters – particularly these averse to robust flavours, an affliction extra frequent on this island than it’s possible you’ll suppose.
Mackerel Sky is hardly the ultimate phrase in seafood, however it does have various laudable issues to say for itself. If nothing else, being served by Mackerel Sky’s warmly welcoming workers whereas the solar units and the neighbouring little brook babbles away is an eminently civilised technique to whereas away an hour or two.
Identify: Mackerel Sky
Tackle: The Bridge, New Highway, Newlyn TR18 5PZ
Telephone: 01736 366 626 (for takeaway enquiries solely)
Internet: http://www.mackerelskycafe.co.uk/
Opening Hours: seven days every week 11.30-21.00.
Reservations: not taken
Common value for one particular person together with smooth drinks however excluding tip: £35-40 approx.
Score: ★★★☆☆
