Like port, madeira is a fortified wine, but it surely’s made in a novel manner on the lonely island of Madeira, which sits about 320 miles off the west coast of Morocco. Found by the Portuguese in 1419, Madeira was established as a stopping level on transatlantic voyages, the place ships would refill on meals, water and wine. The wine was fortified with rum made on the island from the sugar cane that grew there to assist protect it on its journey, and because the ships handed by way of the tropics, the barrels of wine have been uncovered to oxygen and warmth – often the sworn enemies of wine, however which as a substitute remodeled it into one thing very particular certainly.
As of late, the heating takes place on the island itself, and it makes the wine completely secure so it is going to final nearly indefinitely, even after it’s been opened – I’m fortunate sufficient to have tasted one made in 1827, which nonetheless tasted extremely vibrant and contemporary.
The 4 conventional ‘noble’ madeira grapes are sercial, verdelho, boal (additionally known as bual) and malvasia (or malmsey), that are at all times made respectively dry, medium-dry, medium-sweet and candy. However, essentially the most widespread is the versatile tinta negra, used to make madeiras in all these kinds and often used for blended wines, quite than these from a particular classic. All have a particular seam of acidity which means even the sweetest are by no means cloying, and all have the attribute madeira notes of dried fruit, nuts, caramel, crystallised citrus peel and delicate, warming spice – the flavours of Christmas itself.
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I’ve really useful right here some very inexpensive wines, however in the event you’re on the lookout for a really particular current from a sure 12 months, head to Bovey Wines, which shares a few of the oldest madeiras available on the market, made by the esteemed D’Oliveiras firm.
Madeira wines to purchase
Blandy’s Duke of Clarence
Named after the Duke of Clarence, who was famously drowned in a barrel of malmsey madeira in 1478 as a punishment for conspiring towards his brother, King Edward IV. Made in a candy fashion like malmsey, it’s an important introduction to madeira and is broadly accessible. Nice with mince pies, Christmas cake or pistachio and almond date bark, or add a splash to espresso or sizzling chocolate.
Henriques & Henriques 10-year-old sercial
Implausible worth for this elegant, bone-dry sercial. It is a mix of wines, the youngest of which is aged for 10 years, though some could also be a lot older than that. Anticipate dried apricots and roasted almonds with a chunk of tart cooking apples, and serve chilled with crisps, nuts, exhausting cheeses or as a really elegant accompaniment to a cheese toastie with date and tamarind chutney.
Justino’s Colheita 1999
In Portugal, the time period ‘classic’ can solely be used for port; for madeira, ‘colheita’ is used as a substitute. This can be a actually splendid wine – wealthy and complicated with layers of molasses, walnuts, dried figs and candied orange, however nonetheless lifted and contemporary, with unbelievable, zesty size. A match made in heaven with blue cheese, it’s additionally surprisingly good with spicy, savoury meals, so strive it with a turkey curry.
Speedy serve
Madeira flip
A variation on an eggnog that makes it a retro drink to serve together with burnt leek and whipped ricotta canapés to kick off a celebration, or as a substitute of (or in addition to) pudding. You need to use any form of madeira, however may need to add a little bit extra sugar, relying on its sweetness. For six folks, whizz up 300ml of madeira, 300ml of brandy or whisky, 4 eggs and 1 tbsp of sugar in a blender with 4 cubes of ice. Pour into glasses and garnish every with a grating of nutmeg.
