Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate – AKA THD (much like however not precisely the identical because the much less commonly-used Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) – is an oil-soluble Vitamin C spinoff, so is usually present in facial oils which might be extra lively or they are often blended into extra of a conventional serum or moisturiser formulation. This makes it nice for dry pores and skin varieties and extra mature pores and skin varieties missing in lipids, this additionally helps it to penetrate the pores and skin. It is rather more steady than ascorbic acid and will be formulated at a pH that is not dissimilar to that of the pores and skin, which means it isn’t going to wherever close to as irritating. It may be utilized in as much as a 30% focus. THD acts as an antioxidant in addition to being efficient at preventing hyperpigmentation at larger concentrations.
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Blends the ingredient right into a milky serum so ought to swimsuit all pores and skin varietiesAdditionally formulated with Vitamin E Accommodates glycolic acid to assist with penetration and exfoliate the pores and skin to spice up glow
15% focus won’t sort out extra persistent hyperpigmentation Accommodates perfume, which some individuals want to keep away from
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a water-soluble (salt) Vitamin C spinoff, extensively thought-about to be probably the most steady possibility available on the market. This spinoff additionally has antimicrobial advantages, making it a very good possibility for breakout-prone pores and skin. Like THD, this does not want a really low pH to be efficient, so is more likely to be extra sensitive-skin-friendly than ascorbic acid. To focus on hyperpigmentation, it’s good to search for a 3% focus or extra.
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A fancy – it was tough to search out standalone however Calcium Ascorbate is not well-studied Accommodates inexperienced tea extract as an extra antioxidant supply I can not affirm % concentrations Accommodates perfume, which some individuals want to keep away from
The subsequent spinoff we’ll focus in on is Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (AKA MAP), which is salt-based and water-soluble. It is comparatively steady and would not require a low pH to be efficient. In decrease concentrations, it can nonetheless ship antioxidant advantages, however you actually need 5%+ to make a dent in uneven pores and skin tone. An added bonus with this spinoff is that it has anti-inflammatory advantages so may very well be good for acne-prone and redness / rosacea-prone pores and skin.
Accommodates 5% MAP, adequate for each the antioxidant and skin-brightening advantages Accommodates different hydrators and moisturisers like glycerin and shea butter Light-weight milky texture While stability is not an enormous challenge, I would nonetheless prefer to see darker, extra opaque packaging
This spinoff is just a little completely different: it is ascorbic acid that is been tinkered with. You actually need to search for 3-O Ethylated Ascorbic Acid versus earlier iterations of this ingredient, as a result of that is the model that the restricted proof now we have relies on. This ingredient stays steady in each oil and water-based formulation however requires a barely decrease pH than many of the choices we have mentioned on this publish, nonetheless to not the extent that ascorbic acid does. I like to recommend on the lookout for a focus of 5% or extra.
Ascorbyl Glucoside may be very steady water-soluble Vitamin C spinoff (mixed with sugar, because the identify suggests) that is comparatively straightforward to formulate with. Its pH is not too far of from the pores and skin’s pure vary, which minimises potential irritation.
One method to get the broadest potential vary of advantages throughout all of those derivatives is to go for a posh. It is also a good suggestion as a result of many of those derivatives haven’t got super-conclusive proof that they’ll carry out the entire capabilities ascorbic acid does, so see it as hedging your bets.
*Trinny London is just 3-O Ethylated Ascorbic Acid, please ignore its unintentional inclusion on this picture!
